Subscription and other options
Solar energy subscription in Central Florida: the complete 2026 guide
How the My Home Solutions subscription works: you save at least 30%, guaranteed in writing, for 3 or 5 years. Who qualifies, the yearly true-up and when it does not fit.
Written by Yorgan Rojo · Energy advisor, My Home SolutionsUpdated 10 min read

The My Home Solutions solar energy subscription is a 3-or-5-year agreement. You put the sun’s energy on your roof without buying equipment and with no upfront cost. You replace your power bill with one that is at least 30% lower, guaranteed in writing on the total, minimum charge included. It is only for Central Florida homes that meet certain requirements, and it is not for every house.
What is the subscription, in plain words?
It is a new way to have solar energy: you pay for the energy, not the equipment. Think of your home internet. Nobody asks you to buy the router.
The installation team puts it in, maintains it, insures it and repairs it, with a full warranty. That includes permits, interconnection with your utility and monitoring. You pay a fixed monthly amount for the whole term. It does not go up every year: there is no escalator (an automatic yearly payment increase, common in 25-year leases).
You are right to be suspicious of anything that sounds like a giveaway. This is not free. It is a monthly payment in exchange for savings guaranteed in writing and not tying yourself up for 25 years. To see how “free” gets dressed up in other offers, read the free solar myth.
| What you care about | How the subscription handles it |
|---|---|
| Term | 3 or 5 years, your choice |
| Upfront cost | None |
| Monthly amount | Fixed for the whole term, no escalator |
| Savings | At least 30% on your total bill, in writing |
| Yearly true-up | At month 12; if you overpaid, you get it back, no cap |
| Installation, maintenance, insurance, repairs | Included |
| Your deed | Untouched: nothing is recorded against your home |
| Battery | Not included: it is solar energy only |
Who qualifies? The 2026 requirements
You qualify if you own a single-family home in Central Florida that meets everything in this table. If one item fails, it does not apply. We tell you fast so you do not waste time.
| Requirement | What it means | What does NOT qualify |
|---|---|---|
| Home type | Single-family, owned by you | Condos, multifamily, mobile homes |
| Roof | Shingle, with useful life ahead | Tile, metal, ground mount |
| Usage history | At least 12 months in that home | New builds or just-purchased homes |
| Ownership | Your name matches county records | Names that do not match |
| Location | About 50 miles from Orlando | Outside that area |
| Utility | Duke Energy, FPL or TECO | Municipal utilities (OUC, KUA, Lakeland Electric) and co-ops |
| Sun | A roof without heavy shade | Roofs covered by trees |
| Credit | Soft check that does not affect your score | Active bankruptcy or late mortgage |
In practice, that covers cities like Orlando, Kissimmee, Davenport, Haines City, Poinciana, Clermont, Sanford, St. Cloud, Celebration and Winter Garden, as long as your utility is Duke, FPL or TECO. If you are in Orlando on OUC, for example, you do not qualify even if the house is perfect. Check your area in Orlando or Kissimmee.
The 12 months of history are not a whim. They are the baseline for your 30%. Without that baseline, there is no number anyone can guarantee.
How is the 30% calculated?
It starts with what you paid your utility over the last 12 months. That total is your baseline. The subscription is designed so that what you pay in a year (monthly amount + whatever is left on your bill) is, at most, 70% of that baseline.
The key detail is the minimum charge. It is what the utility charges just for being connected, even if you produce all your own energy. With FPL it is a monthly minimum base bill that solar does not eliminate, per its rate document and net metering FAQs. Many proposals calculate savings without counting it. Here it is inside the 30% calculation. That is why we will never promise you a $0 bill. More in the utility minimum charge explained.
An example with round numbers, just to see the arithmetic (this is not a quote):
| Step | Illustrative example |
|---|---|
| What you paid your utility in 12 months | $2,400 |
| Guaranteed ceiling (70% of that baseline) | $1,680 per year |
| What you paid in year one with the subscription (monthly amounts + remaining bill) | $1,800 |
| Difference you get back at the yearly true-up | $120 |
If you paid $1,680 or less in the year, you already saved at least 30% and there is nothing to adjust. If you paid more, the difference comes back to you.
Heads up: the 30% is calculated on your last 12 months of usage. If you later add a big load (an electric car, a pool heater), ask in writing how your agreement handles it before you sign. Better to know today than to argue about it at the true-up.
What is the yearly true-up?
It is the account reconciliation at month 12. What you actually paid is compared against 70% of what you would have paid without the system. If you overpaid, you get the difference back: as a credit on your monthly amount, or in cash if you do not renew. There is no cap. Short definition in the glossary: true-up.
There is a second protection. The production guarantee sets a minimum amount of energy per year, in writing. If the system produces less, you get back the equivalent percentage of the rent. In other words, if the sun or the equipment falls short, you are not the one who pays for it. See production guarantee.
The energy you produce is credited through your utility’s net metering. FPL, Duke and TECO credit residential customers 1 to 1, surplus rolls over month to month and is settled at the annual close. We explain it in net metering in Florida.
What happens with your home during the term?
Your deed is untouched. Nothing is recorded against your home. The only filing is on the equipment, because the equipment is not something you bought. Since you do not buy the system, there is nothing left to pay off and no debt that shows up as a loan.
If the roof has to be replaced. You get 1 removal and reinstall at no cost per term, with 30 days’ notice. That is a big difference from a 25-year lease, where you almost always pay for it. If your roof is near the end of its life, read the roof before solar first.
If the company that owns the system stops operating. You owe nothing to anyone. The agreement ends with no problem for you.
The tax credit. The 30% federal credit for buyers (25D) ended for systems placed in service after December 31, 2025, according to the IRS. What remains is 48E, for third-party-owned systems, through the end of 2027. The system owner uses it, not you. Details in the federal solar tax credit in 2026. Confirm your situation with your tax preparer.
What happens if you sell the house?
You have two exits, and neither costs you anything. The buyer can keep the subscription at no charge. Or, if the buyer does not want it and says so in writing, the agreement is canceled with no charges to you. There is no balance to pay at closing and no 20-year contract to negotiate with the buyer. Compare with the other cases in selling a home with solar.
What happens at the end of the term?
You decide. If you renew, it is in blocks of the same length (3 to 3, 5 to 5). The price is recalculated to keep your 30% savings. If you do not renew, the system is removed at no cost within 30 days. The roof is left sealed and you get a 10-year roof warranty after removal.
When the subscription does NOT make sense
We tell you the truth, even if it means you do not sign with us.
- If your bill is very high, your roof is ideal and you have capital or strong credit. Buying can save more over 25 years, because once it is paid off you pay no one for the energy. If that is your case, we tell you.
- If you need a battery or an electrical panel upgrade. The subscription is solar energy only. Read home solar batteries in Florida.
- If your home does not meet the requirements. Condo, tile or metal roof, municipal utility, just-purchased home or more than about 50 miles from Orlando.
- If you want to own the equipment. You do not buy the system here. If that is what you want, look at a solar loan or a prepaid lease.
All the options side by side are in ways to get solar, compared.
What to check before you decide
- Your last 12 bills. They are the baseline for the 30%, so they need to be complete and in your name.
- That your utility is Duke, FPL or TECO, and your roof is shingle with useful life left.
- The guaranteed minimum production and the exact monthly amount, in writing, before you sign.
- Whether you will add a big load in the next 3 or 5 years, and how your agreement handles it.
- An honest comparison against buying. Start with the payment options comparison or ask for your home’s real numbers in the diagnosis.
Frequently asked questions
What if I do not reach 30% savings for the year?
Do you check my credit?
What happens if I sell the house before the term ends?
What happens at the end of the 3 or 5 years?
What if the company that owns the system stops operating?
Figures vary by home, usage and bill. Incentives vary by county, income and installation type. Confirm any tax matter with your tax preparer.
Sources
- FPL — Net Metering FAQs (minimum base bill and monthly credit)
- FPL — Minimum Base Bill (PDF)
- Florida Administrative Code 25-6.065 — Interconnection and net metering of customer-owned renewable generation
- IRS — Residential Clean Energy Credit (25D)
- Solar Power World — How does the OBBBA change the residential solar ITC?
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Tell us about your home in 2 minutes. We review your real bill and tell you how much you would save with the subscription. If it doesn’t make sense for you, we say so.
